Author: Marketing CS Design

Gloved hand probing a crawl space floor joist with a screwdriver beside termite mud tubes on a brick pier

What Is a Termite Bond? A Guide for South Carolina Homeowners

Written by Marketing CS Design on October 19, 2026. Posted in Pest Control, Prevention Tips.

The short answer: A termite bond is a renewable service contract between you and a licensed pest control company. You pay to keep the contract active, usually once a year, and the company inspects your home on a set schedule and retreats it if termites come back. Some bonds also pay to repair new termite damage, up to a limit; many cover retreatment only. Despite the name, it is not an insurance policy or a surety bond, so what you actually get depends on the written contract.

In coastal South Carolina, where subterranean termites are active and Formosan termites are established in Horry and Georgetown Counties, a bond is one of the most common ways homeowners keep long-term termite protection in place. This guide explains the two main types, what South Carolina’s rules say about termite contracts, what can put your coverage at risk, and what to ask before you sign, renew, buy or sell.

Retreatment-Only vs. Retreatment-and-Repair Bonds

Most termite bonds fall into one of two types. The difference is whether the company pays only to treat termites again or also pays to fix the damage they cause.

	Retreatment-only bond	Retreatment-and-repair bond
What it covers	Inspections plus retreatment of the home if termites return	Inspections, retreatment, and repair of new termite damage that occurs while the bond is active
What it does not cover	Repairing any termite damage	Usually damage that existed before coverage began, damage over the contract’s dollar limit, and personal belongings
Cost	Lower annual renewal	Higher, because the company takes on repair risk
Eligibility	Most homes that pass the initial inspection	Often stricter; the home may need repairs, moisture fixes or better crawl space access first
Best fit	Homeowners who mainly want ongoing monitoring and treatment	Homeowners who want help with the cost of future damage, such as homes with crawl spaces or past termite activity

Read the terms closely either way. Clemson Cooperative Extension’s guide to termites warns that some pest control firms limit their liability for termite damage after treatment, and some contracts exclude damage done by specific termites, such as the Formosan subterranean termite.

What South Carolina Rules Say About Termite Contracts

South Carolina regulates termite work through the Department of Pesticide Regulation. The standards in S.C. Code Regs. § 27-1085 set a few protections every homeowner with a termite contract should know about:

The written contract is binding. Treatment and inspections must follow the state standards and the terms of your written agreement for as long as the contract is valid.
Records must be kept. The company must keep copies of your warranty, treatment records, waivers and inspection records for five years or for the length of the warranty, whichever is longer.
Formosan coverage must be spelled out. The documents that come with a subterranean termite contract must say whether Formosan termites are covered and whether that coverage is retreatment only or includes repair of damage.
Skipped treatment steps need your signature. A full treatment includes steps such as clearing wood debris from the crawl space, correcting wood-to-soil contact and removing mud tubes. If any required step will not be done, you must sign an Official Waiver of Standards form before work begins, and you get a signed copy.
Inspections follow the contract or the product label. Your home must be inspected as often as the contract or the termiticide label requires, whichever is more frequent.
New homes get a starting warranty. When a new single-family home is pretreated for termites, the company provides a one-year transferable warranty covering repair and retreatment, and must offer the owner the chance to renew it for the first five years after the initial treatment.

If you want to confirm that a company and its technician are licensed, the Department of Pesticide Regulation has a public applicator license lookup.

Why Formosan Coverage Matters on the Grand Strand

Native subterranean termites, found throughout South Carolina, live in the soil and travel through mud tubes to reach wood. The Formosan subterranean termite is an invasive species whose colonies are often much larger, sometimes with several million workers. Clemson’s FAQ on termite bonds and Formosan termites lists Horry and Georgetown among the 16 South Carolina counties where Formosan termites are established, while noting that they are not found everywhere in those counties.

The same professional products and methods control both types, so Formosan termites are a reason for attention, not alarm. The practical question is your paperwork. If your bond is older, or you received a letter about Formosan coverage, Clemson advises reading the latest version of your contract and asking the company which termites are covered, what damage (if any) is covered, and whether the contract needs to be amended.

What Can Put Your Termite Coverage at Risk

A bond only works if the treatment stays intact and the inspector can see what is happening. These are the most common ways homeowners weaken their own coverage:

Letting the renewal lapse. Coverage typically ends when you stop paying the renewal. State rules let a company reinstate a contract that has lapsed for less than a year with a partial treatment, but a longer gap can mean starting over with a new inspection and treatment.
Adding on or digging near the foundation. New rooms, porches, decks and landscaping that disturb the soil along the foundation can break the treated zone. For new-home warranties, South Carolina’s rules specifically exclude additions the company never had a chance to treat and landscaping that significantly disturbed the soil. Tell your pest company before you build or regrade.
Wood touching the soil. Untreated wood posts, steps, lattice or foam board insulation in contact with the ground give termites a hidden path into the house.
Moisture in the crawl space. The state standards treat a wood moisture reading of 20% or higher, or standing water, as an excessive moisture condition, and wood decay fungi become active at about 28%. Leaks, poor drainage and missing vapor barriers invite both termites and rot.
Mulch, debris and blocked access. Deep mulch against siding, stored lumber and debris in the crawl space hold moisture and hide termite activity. State standards call for at least 8 inches of clearance between untreated wood and the soil in crawl spaces so the structure can be inspected and treated.
Missing the signs between visits. Swarmers or piles of discarded wings indoors in spring are worth reporting right away. Here is how to tell flying ants from termite swarmers if you are not sure what you found.

Termite Bond vs. CL-100 Wood Infestation Report

Home buyers in South Carolina often hear both terms during a sale, but they are different things:

A termite bond is ongoing protection: a contract that keeps inspections and retreatment (and sometimes repairs) in place year after year.
A CL-100, formally the Official South Carolina Wood Infestation Report, is a one-time snapshot of a home’s condition, typically ordered for a sale or mortgage. Under state rules it must be issued on the official form by a properly licensed inspector, and the inspection covers accessible areas including crawl spaces, utility areas and attics, with moisture readings in the crawl space.

A clean CL-100 does not protect the home going forward, and an active bond does not replace the report a lender asks for. Many buyers need the report for closing and then decide whether to keep or start a bond.

Is a Termite Bond Worth It?

For most coastal South Carolina homes, ongoing termite protection is worth serious consideration. Termite damage builds out of sight, and Clemson notes that nearly all termite infestations in the state need a licensed professional for proper control. Whether a specific bond is worth the price depends on a few things:

Your home’s construction. Homes on crawl spaces, with wood near the soil, or with a history of moisture problems carry more risk and benefit more from regular inspections.
Past termite activity. If the home has been treated before, keeping coverage active is usually cheaper than starting over.
Repair coverage and its limit. A retreatment-only bond costs less, but you pay for any repairs. A repair bond costs more and is only as useful as its dollar limit and exclusions.
Formosan coverage. In Horry and Georgetown Counties, check whether Formosan termites are included and on what terms.
The company behind it. Clemson suggests getting bids from two or three companies, choosing one that provides yearly inspections and a warranty, and being wary of prices far below the others.

If you are weighing options for your home, a local inspection is the best starting point. Our team provides termite control in Myrtle Beach and across Horry and Georgetown Counties, including annual inspections, moisture control recommendations, and baiting systems and protective barriers.

Questions to Ask Before You Sign or Renew

Bring this checklist to any termite contract conversation:

Is this contract retreatment only, or retreatment and repair? If repair is included, what is the dollar limit?
Are Formosan subterranean termites covered, and is that coverage retreatment only or repair too?
How often will the home be inspected, and will I get a written report after each visit?
What does the renewal cost, and can the price change from year to year?
What happens if I miss a renewal? Can the contract be reinstated, and at what cost?
Were any treatment standards waived? If so, can I see the signed waiver?
What conditions on my property could limit or void the coverage, such as moisture, wood-to-soil contact or additions?
Does the contract transfer to a buyer if I sell, and is there a transfer fee or re-inspection?
Is damage that existed before the contract started excluded, and is it documented anywhere?

Buying or Selling a Home With a Termite Bond

If you are selling, an active, transferable bond can reassure buyers. Gather the contract, the most recent inspection report and any treatment records, and ask your pest company how the transfer works.

If you are buying, ask the seller for the same documents and read the contract itself, not just a summary. Check the coverage type, the repair limit, whether Formosan termites are included, when the next renewal is due, and whether the company requires a re-inspection to transfer coverage. Remember that the CL-100 report and the bond answer different questions, and you may want both.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a termite bond the same as insurance?

No. It is a service contract with a pest control company, not an insurance policy. Coverage, limits and exclusions are whatever the written contract says.

How often is a termite bond renewed?

Most bonds renew once a year, and the renewal usually includes an inspection. The contract or the termiticide label sets how often the home must be inspected, whichever is more frequent.

Does a termite bond cover existing damage?

Usually not. Repair bonds generally cover new damage that occurs while the contract is active. Damage found before coverage starts should be documented and repaired separately.

Can I switch termite companies?

Yes, but a new company will usually inspect the home and may need to retreat it before offering its own contract. Avoid letting your current coverage lapse until the new contract is in place.

Do I need a termite bond to sell my house in South Carolina?

A bond is generally not what lenders ask for; they typically ask for the CL-100 Wood Infestation Report. A transferable bond can still be a selling point.

Talk to a Local Termite Professional

Not sure what your current contract covers, or whether your home needs termite protection? Call Wilkey Services Pest Management at (843) 281-0859 or Request a Free Estimate. Ask about same-day scheduling if you have found swarmers or damage.

Gnawed hole in an attic rafter beside a screened vent, with rodent droppings on pink insulation below

Rats or Mice in the Attic? How to Tell Which One You Have

Written by Marketing CS Design on September 30, 2026. Posted in Prevention Tips, Pest Control, Seasonal Pests.

The short answer: If you hear light, quick scurrying at night and find droppings about the size of a grain of rice, you most likely have mice in the attic. Heavier thumping or dragging sounds, droppings about half an inch long or larger, and greasy rub marks along rafters or wires point to rats, usually roof rats, which climb trees and utility lines to reach the roofline. If the noise happens mostly at dawn and dusk rather than overnight, it may be a squirrel instead.

Knowing which one you have matters, because mice, roof rats and Norway rats get in, nest and respond to traps differently. This guide walks you through the clues, how to clean up safely, and where to look for entry points in a Grand Strand home before cooler weather pushes more rodents indoors.

Mice vs. Roof Rats vs. Norway Rats: Side-by-Side

Three rodents cause most indoor problems in coastal South Carolina. Here is how they compare when the evidence is in your attic:

Clue	House mouse	Roof rat	Norway rat
Size	Small and slender, about the size of your palm with the tail	Sleek and agile; tail longer than head and body combined	Large and stocky; tail shorter than head and body
Droppings	About 1/4 inch, like a grain of rice	About 1/2 inch	About 1/2 to 3/4 inch, thick and capsule-shaped
Where it nests	Wall voids, insulation, stored boxes	High spaces: attics, soffits, ceiling voids	Low spaces: burrows along the foundation, crawl spaces, under debris
How it gets up high	Climbs inside walls and along pipes	Excellent climber; runs along tree limbs, fences and power lines	Rarely climbs to the attic; usually found at ground level
Smallest gap it needs	About 1/4 inch, the width of a pencil	Slightly larger than a mouse	Slightly larger than a mouse
Trap behavior	Curious, often investigates new objects	Cautious of new objects near its runways	Cautious of new objects

A Norway rat can end up in an attic, but it is unusual. If the evidence is mostly overhead, think mouse or roof rat first. If you are finding burrows along the foundation or droppings in the crawl space, a Norway rat is more likely.

Clues in Your Attic: Sounds, Droppings and Damage

You rarely see the animal itself, so the evidence it leaves is what tells the story. With a flashlight and a dust mask, check the attic for these signs:

Sounds. Mice make light, fast pitter-patter and faint scratching. Rats sound heavier, with thumps, gnawing and the occasional sound of something being dragged. Both are most active after dark.
Droppings. Size is the most reliable clue. Rice-grain droppings scattered along a path usually mean mice. Droppings half an inch or longer, often in piles along a joist or near the eaves, usually mean rats.
Rub marks. Rats leave dark, greasy smudges where their fur touches rafters, beams and the edges of openings. Mice leave fainter marks.
Runways and nests. Look for flattened tunnels in blown-in or batt insulation and nests of shredded insulation, paper or fabric in corners and along the eaves.
Gnawing. Fresh chew marks look pale and sharp-edged. Check wiring, ductwork, stored boxes and the wood around vents and soffits. Gnawed wiring is a fire risk, so have an electrician look at any damage you find.
Odor. A strong musty or ammonia smell in one area usually means a nest or a latrine spot is nearby.

If you find fresh droppings in more than one area, or droppings of different sizes, the problem is likely established rather than a single visitor.

Could It Be a Squirrel Instead?

Not every attic noise is a rodent. Squirrels are active during the day, so noise that starts at sunrise and again before sunset, with quiet overnight, points to a squirrel. Squirrels also leave larger, visible entry holes, often at a roof corner, gable vent or fascia board, and their droppings are larger and rounder than rat droppings.

Raccoons and other wildlife are louder still and can cause heavy damage to vents and insulation. If the signs point to wildlife rather than mice or rats, the removal may need a wildlife specialist; a pest control technician can help you confirm which animal you are dealing with.

How to Clean Up Droppings Safely

Rodent urine and droppings can carry diseases, and the biggest risk comes from breathing dust stirred up during cleanup. The CDC’s guidance on cleaning up after rodents recommends this routine:

Ventilate first. Open doors and windows, or the attic hatch and vents, for at least 30 minutes before you start.
Protect your hands. Wear rubber or plastic gloves the whole time.
Do not sweep or vacuum. Sweeping or vacuuming dry droppings can put contaminated particles into the air.
Soak it. Spray droppings, urine and nesting material with a bleach solution (1.5 cups of household bleach per gallon of water) or an EPA-registered disinfectant until very wet, and let it sit for 5 minutes or as long as the label says.
Wipe and bag. Pick up the material with paper towels, seal it in a bag and put it in a covered trash can.
Disinfect and wash. Mop or wipe the area with disinfectant, then remove your gloves and wash your hands thoroughly.

Clean up after the rodents are gone, not before. Cleaning while they are still active only means doing it twice. For heavily soiled insulation or a large infestation, professional help is the safer choice.

Where Rodents Get Into Grand Strand Attics

Coastal homes give rodents a lot to work with: mature live oaks and palms that brush the roofline, heavy vegetation, and humid crawl spaces. Roof rats in particular travel along branches, fences and utility lines, so openings high on the house matter as much as those near the ground.

According to the CDC’s guide to sealing rodent entry points, a mouse can fit through a hole the width of a pencil, about 1/4 inch. Walk the outside of your home and check:

Roofline: gaps where the roof meets the fascia, soffit returns, and damaged or loose soffit panels.
Vents: gable, ridge, attic and crawl space vents with torn or missing screens.
Utility penetrations: holes around electrical, cable, plumbing, gas and HVAC lines.
Doors and garage: worn weather stripping and gaps at the garage door corners.
Trees and shrubs: limbs touching or hanging over the roof. UC IPM’s rat guide recommends removing overhanging limbs within 6 feet of the roof and keeping dense plants about 2 feet away from the house.

Fill small holes with steel wool held in place with caulk, and cover larger openings with hardware cloth or metal flashing. Rodents can chew through foam, plastic and wood alone. Because rodents look for warmth and food as the weather cools, early fall is a good time to do this check. If you would rather have it done as part of ongoing protection, our residential pest control plans cover the whole home.

When to Call a Rodent Professional

Some situations are more than a do-it-yourself job:

You hear activity or find fresh droppings again after trapping and sealing.
You find droppings of different sizes, or signs in the attic and the crawl space.
You see gnawed wiring, damaged ductwork or heavily soiled insulation.
You cannot find how they are getting in, or the openings are on a second story or the roof.
Someone in the home is pregnant, very young, elderly or has asthma or a weakened immune system.

Avoid scattering loose poison bait in the attic. A rodent that eats it can die inside a wall or ceiling, where the odor is hard to reach, and loose bait is a hazard for children and pets.

Wilkey Services Pest Management has handled mice and rats in Myrtle Beach and across the Grand Strand since 2010. Our technicians identify which rodent you have, find and seal the entry points, and set a removal plan to keep them out. Learn more about our rodent control in Myrtle Beach, or call (843) 281-0859 to schedule an inspection. Same-day scheduling is available for urgent problems.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can mice and rats live in the attic at the same time?

It is possible, though it is less common. If you find droppings of two clearly different sizes, have the attic inspected, because the two need different trap placement.

Why do I only hear noises in the attic at night?

Mice and rats are mostly nocturnal, so scratching and scurrying after dark is typical. Noise mainly at dawn and dusk is more typical of squirrels.

Will rodents leave the attic on their own?

Rarely. An attic gives them shelter, warmth and nesting material, and both mice and rats breed quickly. Without sealing the entry points and removing the animals, the problem usually grows.

Is it safe to stay in the house with rodents in the attic?

Most families stay home during treatment. Keep people and pets out of the attic, avoid stirring up droppings, and follow safe cleanup steps once the rodents are removed.

Hearing something overhead? Call (843) 281-0859 or Request a Free Estimate and we will find out what is in your attic and how it got in.